What You See and What You Get: Clothing That Conceals and (Sometimes) Reveals

In Morocco, a traditional Jewish groom would wear a white shroud under his black groom’s coat. In Yemen, a Jewish woman would receive female guests on the first Sabbath after she had given birth, wearing a regal dress adorned with pearls—a dress she would then wear on Yom Kippur and eventually be buried in.
This keen awareness of the life cycle and of human mortality is one of the themes of Dress Codes: Revealing the Jewish Wardrobe, an exhibition that opened March 11 at the Israel Museum, Jerusalem. On display are some 100 items, covering about 250 years and originating in nearly 30 countries. The exhibits, all of them worn by Jews, are but a small part of the museum’s collection of 10,000 items of costume, according to Efrat Assaf-Shapira, who is making her curatorial debut with this exhibition.
Jewish women in traditional communities around the world generally wore clothing that men deemed modest. But definitions of modesty varied and were influenced by the surrounding culture. Thus, long before the Taliban came around, Jewish women in Afghanistan wore a black chader with a full-face white veil, and in Iraq both Jewish and Muslim women wore a body wrap called an Image and a full-face veil made of hair from a horse’s tail. The manufacturer of these horsehair veils was a Jew, as were many of the people who worked in the textile industry.

These garments—symbols of the vise-like grip of patriarchal societies—send chills up my spine. Yet there are women in Israel today, known as “Shawl Women,” who have adopted coverings that are as concealing as any in this exhibition. Oddly, there is a feminist aspect to their super-piety, because they are acting on their own accord, without the sanction of (male) rabbis.
Traditionally, women could at least please themselves in what they wore under their wraps. “Concealing and revealing” is another of the themes of the exhibition, Assaf-Shapira said, pointing to the brightly colored trousers worn by Bukharan women under their whole-body cover-ups. And in Baghdad, the curator added, women wore sequined and embroidered bustiers hardly different from what Jean Paul Gaultier designed for Madonna.

One of the oddest items on display is a pair of trousers, part of the bridal costume in Tunisia. The trousers appear to be size XXXL, and the explanation is that women were fattened up—even awakened at night to eat—before the wedding, because bodily fat was considered a sign of good health.

Image

Another very interesting, and rare, item is from Iran. Dating to the early twentieth century, it is all in maroon, and consists of a jacket, a short tutu-like skirt, and tight pants. Assaf-Shapira said the fashion was influenced by the visit of the shah and his wife to Paris, where they saw a ballet and were captivated by the tutus and tights. But the fashion was short-lived, because Iran at the time was moving rapidly toward the West.
As is obvious from the exhibition, brides did not always wear white. In fact, most of the bridal costumes displayed are in other colors. It was Queen Victoria who made white de rigueur for bridal gowns. On display is a magnificent mid twentieth century ivory gown from New York; the “something borrowed” is the fine, nineteenth-century lace veil, and the “something blue,” Assaf-Shapira revealed, is a blue ribbon tucked inside the bodice.
In traditional Jewish communities, a treasured dress that did not become a shroud might be donated to the synagogue after the owner’s death for use as a parochet (a cover for the ark). The cover would then be embroidered with the woman’s name, thus serving as a memorial for her.
Also on display is a collection of children’s clothes—nearly all of them looking like miniatures of adults clothes, because in traditional societies children were considered to be adults in the making.
Through October 25, 2014.

Text copyright 2014 by Esther Hecht. No part of the text may be used without written permission of the author, or, in the case of the images, written permission of the Israel Museum.

 

 

Advertisements

Tags: , , ,

8 Responses to “What You See and What You Get: Clothing That Conceals and (Sometimes) Reveals”

  1. Judy Labensohn Says:

    This is so interesting Esther. You should get a commission from the Museum. I rather like the idea of a veil made of horse hair, as my skin doctor tells me to avoid the sun all year round. I’d be willing to wear a white veil of cotton too if some designer would come up with something snazzy. I think the Israel Cancer Assoc. should hire a designer for such a project. Brachot and glad to see your blog again. Judy

  2. estherhecht Says:

    Judy,
    One of the reasons you’re such a good writing teacher is that you make each writer feel valued. Thanks for your comments. (And I’ll take a big hat over a veil any day.)
    Esther

  3. David Bennett Says:

    Very, very interesting.

    What was the least modest garment you saw on display that a woman would wear in public?

  4. estherhecht Says:

    Well, David, as you’ve probably gathered, my view is that modesty is in the eye of the beholder. However, there is a gown on display that is worn over a somewhat diaphanous bodice. The gown is cut away around the breasts so that the thin bodice is very prominent.
    And then there was the tutu-skirt outfit I mentioned. For its time, it was probably quite risque.
    The costumes on display are ceremonial, mainly–the curator explained–because everyday items simply did not survive. Most of the garments shown are lavishly embroidered, some with silver or gold thread.

  5. Zoller Geraldine Says:

    Many thanks for another interesting article.
    Love it when you write about something totally foreign to me.
    How I wish I could see the exhibition! Your description fills my imagination.

  6. ebythebeach Says:

    I bet none of my Iranian ex’s know about this

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s


%d bloggers like this: